Feature: Our Watches & Wonders 2025 round-up
While the industry continues to debate the hits and misses of this year’s Watches & Wonders, we’ve put together 12 of our favourite timepieces launched at the event. Which of these made your own shortlist?
Vacheron Constantin Solaria Ultra Grand Complication La Premiere, reference 9600C/000G-231C
If there was a prize for the most technically impressive watch at this year’s W&W, this would be the winner. It boasts an astounding 41 complications, five rare astronomical functions and a minute-repeater. Unsurprisingly, Vacheron’s finest horological minds spent eight years of research and development bringing this watch to life.
A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual, reference 607.091FE
While we love the new version of the Odysseus in the brand’s HONEYGOLD, it’s hard to look beyond this masterpiece. Its platinum case is home to two complications that only brands in the upper echelons of the watch industry can truly master: a perpetual calendar and a minute repeater. Should you ever get bored of looking at it, you can listen to its melodious chimes.
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Rolex GMT-Master II, tiger iron dial, reference 126715CHNR
The popularity of Rolex watches with unique dials—from malachite to meteorite—never wanes. This GMT-Master II in rose gold features a dial made from tiger iron, a metamorphic rock with the crimson and amber bands of a spectacular tropical sunset. For many collectors, this watch has shot to the top of their Rolex wish-list. Competition to own one will be fierce.
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Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, reference 103834
The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is the thinnest tourbillon watch ever made, proving Bulgari's mastery of the wafer-thin watch. Made from titanium and with a thickness of just 1.85 mm, its slightly thicker than Richard Mille’s record-breaking 1.75mm-thick Ferrari watch (which isn’t a tourbillon), and far more elegant. Bulgari has set the bar high on its Watches & Wonders debut.
IWC Big Pilot’s Shock Absorber Tourbillon Skeleton XPL, reference IW357701
Here’s a dynamic new look for the Big Pilot’s series. This skeleton-dial model is made from Ceratanium, a titanium alloy that assumes the properties of ceramic during a special heat process, giving it a dark metallic finish. IWC has used it before but not to such dramatic effect. An innovative new shock absorber system gives added protection to the tourbillon.
Cartier Tank à Guichets, reference WGTA0237
Cartier has unveiled a host of eye-catching releases this year, including the relaunch of its iconic Tank à Guichets. Its distinctive dial consists of two apertures, one for the hours and one for the minutes, resembling your typical digital display. We’re drawn to the limited-edition platinum version with its apertures positioned at an angle.
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TAG Heuer Monaco Split Seconds Chronograph F1, reference CBW2190.FC8356
TAG Heuer keeps finding ways to keep the Monaco relevant and cutting-edge, and this version in white ceramic is as good as anything the brand produces right now. It’s a split-seconds chronograph with a captivating red skeleton dial that embodies the spirit of Formula 1. No more than ten pieces will be made.
Panerai GMT Perpetual Calendar Platinumtech, reference PAM01575
With a 44mm case fashioned from Panerai’s proprietary Platinumtech—40% harder than standard platinum—this watch has a reassuring wrist presence. It’s also a handy travel companion thanks to its second time zone, while the perpetual calendar adds horological gravitas. The blue sapphire dial acknowledging Panerai’s maritime roots is also a neat touch.
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Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater, reference Q7122480
Limited to just 30 pieces, this Reverso minute repeater runs on the newly developed Calibre 953, which incorporates key inventions that enhance chime quality—trébuchet hammers, crystal gongs and silent-interval elimination. Its stunning guilloche dial is made of teal grand feu enamel, whereas the impressive skeleton reverse dial allows you to admire the watch’s movement.
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Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135, reference 40.1865.0135/51.C200
Celebrating its 160th anniversary this year, Zenith has released this platinum model bearing the initials of brand founder, Georges Favre-Jacot. Featuring a brick guilloche pattern as well as lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl, the three-part dial could have ended up looking a little over-the-top, but Zenith has pulled it off. It’s equipped with an award-winning old movement, the Calibre 135, that’s been revived and improved for this model.
Grand Seiko Tentagraph ‘Tokyo Lion’, reference SLGC009
This new version of Grand Seiko’s hi-beat chronograph comes in a distinctive geometric 43mm titanium case with a water resistance of 200 metres—impressive for a chronograph. Its rugged looks are accentuated by the grooved pushers and dial, and even the rubber strap looks like it’s been chiselled from granite. The taupe colourway adds an element of safari chic.
Tudor Pelagos Ultra, reference M2543C1A7NU-0001
This is the most technically capable Pelagos ever with an incredible water resistance of 1,000m. Made of titanium, it’s built for deep-sea diving and uses colourful lume on the dial to improve legibility. Its case, which features a helium escape valve, is a hefty 43mm, whereas its bracelet was redesigned to include a diver’s extension with a new visual indicator system.
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